#navbar-iframe{display:none!important;} Chimney Repair Oakland County 313-355-3719

Livonia Chimney repair


The Michigan Masonry Network was developed with the goal of matching quality conscious Michigan Masonry Contractors with Michigan homeowners. After years in the Masonry construction and masonry repair industry, our members have a vast knowledge of all things brick, block, and stone. With the change in advertising trends from traditional yellow pages, television, and print advertising to the internet marketing, it was determined that the formation of the Michigan Masonry Network only made sense. This site has been built by Michigan bricklayers for Michigan bricklayers.
Find Local Brick Company, 313-355-3719 www.michiganchimneyrepair.com, Michigan Masonry Network is a group of bricklayers and masonry craftsman who are devoted to masonry and beautifying Oakland County as well as surrounding communities.
If We Can’t Handle Your Bricklaying, We Can Refer A Local Michigan Bricklayer To You!
Let us help you repair and restore your home’s masonry beauty. We can provide a Local Brick Company that is Oakland County's leading masonry restoration Contractor . Our network of brick professionals have worked hard to earn a reputation for quality and look forward to showing the residents of Oakland County that it is well deserved. Our goal is to leave every customer satisfied and willing to use us again, or recommend us to a friend/neighbor. Our Bricklayers pride themselves on building, corners not cutting them.
At Michigan Masonry network find Local Brick Company that are experts at matching existing brick work. Our staff of bricklayer experts has spent years in the field working with local masonry supply yards. If you have Michigan bricklaying that needs to be repaired or a new construction masonry project one of Local Brick Company’s specialists will be happy to find you the closest possible match, or refer you to a local Michigan bricklayer who can help you. To schedule a masonry consultation please call
that treats that take pride in their craft (313-355-3719
We Service the following communities in Michigan:
Oakland County, Auburn Hills, Beverly Hills, Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, Bloomfield township, Brighton, Canton, Clarkston, Clawson, Commerce, Dearborn, Detroit, Dearborn Heights, Ferndale, Drayton Plains, Eastpointe, Farmington, Farmington Hills, Grosse Pointe, Highland, Highland Park, Howell, Huntington Woods, Keego Harbor, Lake Orion, Lathrup Village, Lincoln Park, Livonia, Madison Heights, Milford, New Hudson, Northville, Livonia, Oak Park, Orchard Lake, Orion, Orchard Lake, Ortonville, Pontiac, Redford, Rochester, Rochester Hills, Romulus, Roseville, Royal Oak, South Lyon, Southfield, Sterling Heights, Sylvan Lake, Troy, Utica, Walled Lake, Waterford, West Bloomfield, White Lake Oakland County, Wayne County, Macomb County, and Livingston County














CHIMNEY REPAIR TIPS REPLACING THE CHIMNEY CROWN
Many times as a homeowner or property investor you will find your chimney in need of some minor chimney repair or chimney sweeping. The first step is gain access to the chimney. If your chimney is 30 feet tall and inaccessible it may be wise to hire a chimney repair specialist. Most reputable masonry contractors will provide you with a free estimate. Once you have gained access to your chimney you can begin the repair process.
The second step is to assess the level of chimney repair necessary. If your chimney crown is cracked this can often times be a simple enough chimney repair to perform for an experienced do-it-yourselfer. The chimney crown is the top concrete part of the chimney. Any chimney crown repair begins with the removal of the damaged crown. Most Chimney repair specialist will chip away the concrete with a rotary hammer or pneumatic chisel. As a DIY homeowner an older and more manual method may be necessary to remove the chimney crown. For this I would recommend a chisel, 5 lb sledge hammer, & brick hammer. Of course the tool necessary for chimney repair and chimney crown replacement are dependent on the size and thickness of the brick masonry chimney crown
Once you have removed the chimney crown inspect the flue on the chimney. The chimney flue liner is the ceramic insert that runs up the center of the chimney. If the flue is cracked it may be time to call in a chimney repair professional. Provided the chimney flu is in sound condition you can begin replacing the chimney crown. The next step in the chimney repair process is the clean and loose debris and dust of the top of the chimney. Use a stiff bristle brush to clean of any particles.
The next step in the chimney repair process is to mix up some concrete. In most cases I recommend that the DIY homeowner use a redi-mix concrete. When I do a chimney repair I prefer using fiber reinforced crack resistant concrete. I have found that the thicker/stiffer the concrete is mixed the less likely it is to run down the side of the chimney this will make for a cleaner chimney repair. When working in a warmer climate and temperatures exceed 80 degrees on the day you do your chimney repair you will want to mix your concrete more thin/loose.
Make sure to slope your concrete away from the ceramic flue liner to allow for proper water drainage. I find that when you make your chimney crown thicker it makes for a longer lasting chimney repair. On Most chimney repairs on chimney crown pour the concrete 4-7 inches thick at the flue and slope it down to a 2 inch edge. Achieving a smooth finish on your concrete can take years of practice to master but with some patience most DIY homeowners can handle this repair
The above information has been provided for the benefit of the DIY homeowner by Mark Allen Maupin of Brick Repair LLC (248) 895-7752. Brick Repair LLC Is a local Michigan chimney cleaning and chimney sweeping masonry repair contractor with the last 12 years specialized in masonry restoration and repair. We are experts at matching brick and mortar color We offer free estimates for any of the following services: Fireplace installation Chimney repair, Chimney construction, Chimney crown repair, chimney cap replacement, Chimney rebuilds, Chimineas Tuckpointing, Natural stone, Limestone replacement, Cultured stone, brick porch repair, Brick porch construction, Brick wall construction, toothing work, pointing and repointing work, grout replacement, and historic restoration. We look forward to the opportunity to help you with and brick, block or stone project.



Auburn Hills, Beverly Hills, Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, Bloomfield township, Brighton, Canton, Clarkston, Clawson, Commerce,Livonia, Madison Heights, Milford, New Hudson, Northville, Livonia, Oak Park, Orchard Lake, Orion, Orchard Lake, Ortonville, Pontiac, Redford, Rochester, Rochester Hills, Dearborn, Dearborn Heights, Ferndale, Drayton Plains, Eastpointe, Farmington, Farmington Hills, Grosse pointe, Highland, Highland Park, Howell, Hunington Woods, Keego Harbor, Lake Orion, Lathrup Village, Lincoln Park, Romulus, Roseville, Royal Oak, South Lyon, Southfield, Sterling Heights, Sylvan Lake, Troy, Utica, Walled Lake, Waterford, West Bloomfield, White Lake Oakland County, Wayne County, Macomb County, Livingston County
Local Brick Company (248) 895-7752) http://MichiganChimneyRepair.org Is a local Oakland County Michigan masonry contractor with the last 12 years specialized in masonry restoration and repair. We are experts at matching brick and mortar color. We are not a handyman service. Brick Local Brick Company is a group of masonry craftsman devoted to masonry beautifying Oakland County and surrounding communities. des
Let us help you repair and restore you homes masonry beauty. Local Brick Company is Oakland County's leading masonry restoration company. We have worked hard to earn a reputation for quality and look forward to showing the residents of Oakland County that it is well deserved. Our goal is to leave every customer satisfied and willing to use us again, or recommend us to a friend. We pride ourselves on building corners not cutting them.
Brick is one of the oldest building materials man has. Brick has been used as a building material by man for centuries. The earliest bricks were made of clay formed into shapes and dried by the heat of the sun. These bricks were known as adobe. As man’s knowledge of building grew we came to the realization that by heating, (firing) the brick in a kiln they became stronger. The technology used for manufacturing brick in today’s modern era has changed. No longer are brick formed by hand and dried in the sun. Today’s brick are made in giant computer controlled kilns. Brick color and size are no longer limited to the color of the clay. Brick is now available in a variety of sizes, colors, and textures.
A small selection of brick can be found in most building supply yards such as Home Depot or Lowes, but the best place to find brick is in your local brick supply yard. These yards have a variety of shapes, colors, textures, and sizes of brick. There are a variety of brick textures available on the market today. Some of these textures are bark face, rug, buff, shale, vertical mat, bark face with a vine, wire cut, glazed, and that is just to name a few.
When choosing a brick for your brickwork or repair project, you need to be aware that there are two ways to describe brick size. One is the actual brick dimension and the other is nominal. Nominal refers to the size of the brick plus the mortar joint.
When you visit your local Michigan brick supply yard, they will typically have a large selection of brick, mortar and joint styles to choose from. The most common size of brick in Michigan is 3 5/8 in. x 2 ½ in. x 7 5/8 in. and weighs 4-4 ½ lbs. Norman brick are the same height and width as a standard brick, but is longer at 11 5/8 in. Roman brick are 3 5/8 in. x 1 5/8 in. x 11 5/8 in. In Michigan I only know of one supply yard in which you can get roman brick. Many brick when you lay them have a front and a back, the front side having the desired finish. Roman brick have a different finish on both sides and can be laid either way depending on the finish you desire. http://www.bricklayersdetroit.com
Livonia Brick Company & Livonia Michigan Masonry Contractor, Livonia Brick work Contractor, Livonia Michigan Fireplace
(248) 895-7752
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Livonia Brick Company (248) 895-7752 (www.michiganchimneyrepair.com) local masonry contractor serving Livonia Mi. Work with a brick company that has years of experience specialized Chimney cleaning, Chimney repair, chimney inspection, Fireplace construction, masonry restoration and brick repair. Our chimney sweeps are happy to inspect your brick chimney fireplace and our Livonia mi chimney sweeps and brickwork specialists can provide you with your annual chimney cleaning or chimney repair. We are experts at matching brick and mortar color commonly found in Livonia, and Northville mi. At Livonia Brick Company we are handyman we are Masonry restoration and chimney cleaning experts
For A Chimney Inspection or Chimney Cleaning Call (248) 895-7752
Here at brick repair we strive to the top Livonia Mi chimney cleaning and chimney repair company, Chimney Fireplace Company
Chimney cleaning is the removal of dangerous creosote build-up on the inside of the chimney. These deposits are highly flammable and are the cause of a great many chimney fires. If you want to know whether or not your Livonia chimney needs to be cleaned you should hire a local Livonia chimney sweep and have a proper 16 point chimney inspection performed. For those do-it-yourselfer's who have acquired the necessary chimney cleaning tools and want to inspect and clean their own chimney, below we have included a step by step explanation.
Let a Livonia Brick Company help you with any of your chimney related problems. Our Livonia chimney cleaning, and chimney repair specialist all have years in the field. They have worked hard to earn a reputation for quality masonry work and look forward to showing Northville and Livonia Michigan that it is well deserved. Our goal is to leave every customer satisfied and willing to use us again, or recommend us to a friend. We pride ourselves on building corners not cutting them.
The first step in the chimney cleaning and chimney inspection process is to open the chimney damper and inspect that it is opening and closing freely. Once you have opened the chimney damper look into the area above the damper, this is called the chimney smoke shelf. Make sure the walls of the smoke shelf are free from creosote deposits and do not have a layer of soot on the interior walls more than a quarter inch thick. Next go to the top of your chimney and look to see if there is any creosote build-up on the inside of the chimney flue.
If you or your chimney sweeping professional have determined that your chimney is in need of a good cleaning you then want to secure the opening of the chimney fireplace. Chimney cleaning and the cleaning of your chimney is not a very difficult process in and of itself. The need for a chimney cleaning expert and necessity to hire a chimney sweep comes in ensuring that the job is done in a clean and neat manner. In order to ensure a neat cleaning of your chimney drop clothes should be laid in front of the fireplace opening. Once the damper on the chimney is open and the drop cloths are spread out, then tape into place a clear plastic sheet over the fireplace opening to ensure no dust ends up on your flooring or furniture. Once you have secured the fireplace area you can then begin cleaning your chimney.
When Hiring a Chimney Sweep for your Livonia Mi Fireplace Chimney Cleaning and Chimney Repair Use only qualified Chimney Cleaning Professional
The next part of the chimney cleaning process is to gather your chimney cleaning brushes and rods. Carefully move towards the top of the chimney and make sure that you have a firm footing. If you are working off of a ladder or scaffold, be sure they are properly set up and secure. Attach your chimney cleaning brush to your chimney cleaning rod. Chimney cleaning rods are typically 48 inches and are made up of flexible composite material.
Insert your chimney cleaning brush into the opening of the chimney flue liner and rigorously brush up and down. Once you have cleaned your first 4 ft. section of the flue liner attach your next chimney cleaning rod into place and work the brush further down the chimney flue liner. Continue attaching chimney cleaning rods and rigorously brushing the inside of the chimney flue to remove creosote deposits until you have reached the chimney smoke shelf. Once all of the debris from the chimney flue liners have been knocked down onto the damper and into the chimney fireplace, use your shop vac to suction up all of the soot and ash.
Take the end of your shop vac hose and work it through the damper and into any ash piles resting on the damper opening, and any other nook and crannies in the smoke shelf. Take a wire brush and rigorously scrub the smoke shelf walls. Please note you may not be able to see into the damper as you are cleaning it. This is where video chimney inspection or use of a mirror can be quite handy. Once you have brushed and vacuumed out all of the soot and ash you can then begin to clean up your work area.
If you have an interest in getting more information about chimneys, chimney repairs, chimney inspections, or chimney cleanings please visit us at http://www.michiganchimneyrepair.com or reach us at 248-895-7752.
Michigan fireplace chimney fires are a reality of life. They destroy thousands of homes and lives. Having a regular chimney cleaning by your local chimney sweep can prevent most chimney fires. Most Wayne County Commerce and Highland residents don’t even realize the risk their homes could be in from chimney fires. First, let us establish who is at risk.
If proper precautions are taken, chimney fires in Livonia can be avoided. A Chimney should be inspected by a chimney sweep and chimney cleaning specialist regularly. First, you need to understand the anatomy of how a fireplace works and how a fireplace chimney fire is set into motion. When a fire is built in a masonry or brick chimney it is started in the fireplace fire box.
The chimney firebox is built out of fire brick. A fire brick, firebrick, or refractory brick is a block of refractory ceramic material used in lining furnaces, kilns, fireboxes, and fireplaces. A fireplace fire box is primarily to withstand high temperature, but will also usually have a low thermal conductivity for greater energy efficiency. Fireplace firebricks are weaker, but they are much lighter, and insulate far better than dense bricks. A brick fireplace brick fire box should be free from cracks. The fireplace fire brick will taper in toward a damper and smoke shelf. A fireplace firebox is the only spot in which burning wood should occur.
Everybody knows where there is smoke there is fire, so obviously when you burn wood in your fireplace chimney, smoke is released and travels up from your fire box and into a smoke shelf and chimney flue liner. As the warm smoke travels up the chimney flue liner it begins to cool. That smoke condenses on the inside walls of your chimney flue liner and is converted into creosote.
Creosote is a highly flammable material that ignites easily from flame or spark. The type of wood that is burned in a brick chimney fireplace and frequency of chimney cleaning affects the amount of creosote built up on the chimney flue liner. Green, or unseasoned wood, contains a lot of moisture. This means it takes more heat to burn the wood in the brick fireplace firebox. Green wood produces more creosote.
Outside temperature can also play a factor in the amount of creosote formed. Chimneys that run up the side of your brick house are more apt to produce creosote. than one that runs up the center of your home This is because brick concrete and stone masonry has a low insulation value. The warm smoke being hit by cool temperatures condenses more quickly.
Proper air flow is critical to your stone or brick chimney. Making sure your fireplace damper is open all the way so that smoke ventilates through the chimney quickly also reduces the risk of creosote forming. A Fireplace chimney must be built to a proper height to draft properly; usually three feet above the roof or ten feet from the roof.
You must make sure to have a Livonia chimney cleaning professional or chimney sweep clean your chimney annually.
Contact Us
Local Brick Company (248) 895-7752) Brickrepairllc@gmail.com local Oakland county masonry contractor with the last 12 years specialized in masonry restoration and chimney repair. We are experts at matching brick and mortar color We offer free estimates for any of the following Services Chimney repair, Chimney construction, Chimney crown repair, chimney cap replacement, Chimney rebuilds, Chimneys Tuck pointing, Natural stone, Limestone replacement, Cultured stone, Brick porch repair, Brick porch construction, Brick wall construction, toothing work, pointing and repointing work, grout replacement, and historic restoration. We look forward to the opportunity to help you with and brick, block or stone project.
Auburn Hills, Beverly Hills, Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, Bloomfield township, Brighton, Canton, Clarkston, Clawson, Commerce, Dearborn, Dearborn Heights, Ferndale, Drayton Plains, Eastpointe, Farmington, Farmington Hills, Grosse Pointe, Highland, Highland Park, Howell, Huntington Woods, Keego Harbor, Lake Orion, Lathrup Village, Lincoln Park, Livonia, Madison Heights, Milford, New Hudson, Northville, Livonia, Oak Park, Orchard Lake, Orion, Orchard Lake, Ortonville, Pontiac, Redford, Rochester, Rochester Hills, Romulus, Roseville, Royal Oak, South Lyon, Southfield, Sterling Heights, Sylvan Lake, Troy, Utica, Walled Lake, Waterford, West Bloomfield, White Lake Oakland County, Wayne County, Macomb County, Livingston County

Be sure to include your contact information in the body of your email. We welcome all feedback, suggestions, and questions.
Thank you.
248-895-7752
Utility brick, often known as king brick, are larger in size and typically used on commercial projects. They are 3 5/8 in. x 3 5/8 in. x 11 5/8 in. Engineered brick, also known as queen brick, are 3 5/8 in. x 2 ¾ in. x 7 5/8 in. It is important to remember that in dealing with brick there can be a slight variation due to shrink and expansion during the kiln firing process. One of the great benefits to purchasing your brick at a local Michigan supply yard is they typically have samples of the brick on panels where you can get a good idea of what your brick will look like up on a wall.
When working with brick supply yards you also have access to a wealth of knowledge. Your local Home Depot or Lowes associate will probably only be familiar with two or three different kinds of brick. Most of the people who work at masonry supply yards have years of experience in matching brick. One of the benefits of having been in masonry repair for the last thirteen years is I have visited several masonry supply yards and have had a chance to acquire a fair amount of knowledge of matching brick myself.
Contact Us
Local Brick Company (248) 895-7752 Brickrepairllc@gmail.com local Oakland county masonry contractor with the last 12 years specialized in masonry restoration and chimney repair. We are experts at matching brick and mortar color We offer free estimates for any of the following Services Chimney repair, Chimney construction, Chimney crown repair, chimney cap replacement, Chimney rebuilds, Chimneys Tuck pointing, Natural stone, Limestone replacement, Cultured stone, Brick porch repair, Brick porch construction, Brick wall construction, toothing work, pointing and repointing work, grout replacement, and historic restoration. We look forward to the opportunity to help you with and brick, block or stone project.
Auburn Hills, Beverly Hills, Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, Bloomfield township, Brighton, Canton, Clarkston, Clawson, Commerce, Detroit, Dearborn, Dearborn Heights, Ferndale, Drayton Plains, Eastpointe, Farmington, Farmington Hills, Grosse Pointe, Highland, Highland Park, Howell, Huntington Woods, Keego Harbor, Lake Orion, Lathrup Village, Lincoln Park, Livonia, Madison Heights, Milford, New Hudson, Northville, Livonia, Oak Park, Orchard Lake, Orion, Orchard Lake, Ortonville, Pontiac, Redford, Rochester, Rochester Hills, Romulus, Roseville, Royal Oak, South Lyon, Southfield, Sterling Heights, Sylvan Lake, Troy, Utica, Walled Lake, Waterford, West Bloomfield, White Lake Oakland County, Wayne County, Macomb County, Livingston County

Be sure to include your contact information in the body of your email. We welcome all feedback, suggestions, and questions.
Thank you.
248-895-7752
Here are some various facts about Michigan Bricklaying per Wikipedia
Brick dimensions
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A wall built in Flemish bond
Brick sizes are, in general, coordinated so that two rows of bricks laid alongside, with a mortar joint between them, are the same width as the length of a single brick laid across the two rows. That allows headers, bricks laid at 90 degrees to the direction of the wall, to be built in and tie together two or more layers, or wythes, of brick. The thickness of a brick wall is measured by the length of a brick, so a wall one brick thick contains two layers of brick where as a wall one and a half bricks thick contains three layers, etc. A common metric coordinating size is 215 millimeters (8.5 in) x 102.5 millimeters (4.04 in) x 65 millimeters (2.6 in), which is intended to work with a 10 millimeters (0.39 in) mortar joint: 75 millimeters (3.0 in) course height, 215 millimeters (8.5 in) wall thickness etc. This is based on the earlier inch sizes. There are many different standard brick sizes worldwide, most with some coordinating principle.
[edit] Wall thickness and construction
[edit] Solid brickwork
The simplest type of wall is constructed in solid brickwork, normally one brick thick. Bricks are laid in rows known as courses, the arrangement of headers and stretchers in each course gives rise to different patterns or bonds.
[edit] Cavity walls
In a cavity wall, two layers (or leaves) of brickwork are tied together with metal ties, with a cavity of 2 to 4 inches that may be filled with insulation.
[edit] Brick facing
A non-structural outer facing of brick is tied back to an internal structure: a layer of block work, timber or metal studwork etc.
[edit] Terminology
Positions
  • Bond: a pattern in which brick is laid.
  • Stretcher: a brick laid horizontally, flat with the long side of the brick exposed on the outer face of a wall.
  • Header: a brick laid flat with the short end of the brick exposed.
  • Soldier: a brick laid vertically with the narrow ("stretcher") side exposed.
  • Sailor: a brick laid vertically with the broad side exposed.
  • Rowlock or Bull Header[1]: a brick laid on the long, narrow side with the small or "header" side exposed.
  • Shiner: a brick laid on the long narrow side with the broad side exposed.[2][3]
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Six positions
Brick Types. There are two main types of clay bricks: pressed and wire-cut. Pressed bricks usually have a deep frog in one bedding surface and a shallow frog in the other. Wire-cut bricks usually have 3 or 4 holes through them constituting up to 25% of the total volume of the brick. Some ‘perforated’ bricks have many smaller holes.
Brick Usage. There are three main categories of use, and both pressed bricks or wire-cut brick types are used in all three categories:
  • Facing brickwork is the visible decorative work.
  • Engineering brickwork, (using engineering bricks) often seen in bridges and large industrial construction but may also be hidden in ground works where maximum durability is required, e.g., in manhole construction.
  • Common brickwork is not usually seen and is used where engineering qualities are not required; below ground in domestic buildings and internal walls, for instance.
Frog up/down. A frog is a recessed part of a surface of a brick. Pressed bricks are laid ‘frog up’ when maximum strength is required especially in engineering work. This method also increases the mass of a wall and decreases sound transmittance. Pressed bricks may be laid frog down; this method is favoured by the bricklayer, since less mortar is required for bedding. There may also be a marginal increase in thermal insulation due to the entrapped air pockets. A disadvantage of this method is that, with bricks having a very deep ‘V’-shaped frog, there may be some difficulty in making reliable fixings to the wall when the fixing hits an air pocket.
Wire-cut bricks may be laid either way up but some types of wire cuts have a textured (combed) face, creating folds in the face of the brick, which is directional. It is advisable to lay these bricks with the folds hanging downward to maximise the weathering characteristics of the brick.
Ties or cavity ties are used to tie layers of brickwork into one another, to form a structural whole. A common type is a figure-eight of twisted wire, in general stainless steel to avoid failure due to corrosion. The loop at either end is buried in the mortar bed as the wall is built up.
Mortar is a mixture of sand, lime, and Portland cement, mixed with water to a workable consistency. It is applied with a bricklayer's trowel, and sets solid in a few hours. There are many different mixes and admixtures used to make mortars with different performance characteristics.
[edit] British Bricklaying Terms
Air brick - a brick with perforations to allow the passage of air through a wall. Usually used to permit the ventilation of underfloor areas.
Bat - a cut brick. A quarter bat is one-quarter the length of a stretcher. A half-bat is one-half.
[4]
Bullnose- Rounded edges are useful fo window sills, and capping on low and freestanding walls.
Cant - a header that is angled at less than 90 degrees.
Closer - a cut brick used to change the bond at quoins. Commonly a quarter bat.
- Queens closer - a brick that has been cut over its length and is a stretcher long and a quarter-bat deep. Commonly used to bond one brick walls at right-angled quoins.
- Kings closer - a brick that has been cut diagonally over its length to show a half-bat at one end and nothing at the other.
Corbel - a brick, block, or stone that oversails the main wall.
Cramp - or frame cramp is a tie used to secure a window or door frame.
Creasing tile - a flat clay tile laid as a brick to form decorative features or waterproofing to the top of a garden wall.
Dog Leg - a brick that is specially made to bond around internal acute angles. Typically 60 or 45 degrees.
Dog tooth - a course of headers where alternate bricks project from the face.
Fire Wall - a wall specifically constructed to compartmentalise a building in order to prevent fire spread.
Honeycomb wall - a wall, usually stretcher bond, in which the vertical joints are opened up to the size of a quarter bat to allow air to circulate. Commonly used in sleeper walls.
Indent - a hole left in a wall in order to accommodate an adjoining wall at a future date. These are often left to permit temporary access to the work area.
Movement Joint - a straight joint formed in a wall to contain compressible material, in order to prevent cracking as the wall contracts or expands.
Noggin - infill brick panels in timber framework buildings
Party Wall - a wall shared by two properties or parties.
Pier - a free-standing section of masonry such as pillar or panel.
Plinth - a stretcher that is angled at less than 90 degrees.
Quoin - a corner in masonry.
Racking back - stepping back the bond as the wall increases in height in order to allow the work to proceed at a future date.
Saw tooth - a course of headers laid at a 45-degree angle to the main face.
Shear Wall - a wall designed to give way in the event of structural failure in order to preserve the integrity of the remaining building.
Sleeper wall - a low wall whose function is to provide support, typically to floor joists.
Snapped Header - a half-bat laid to appear as a header. Commonly used to build short-radii half-brick walls or decorative features.
Squint - a brick that is specially made to bond around external quoins of obtuse angles. Typically 60 or 45 degrees.
Stopped end - the end of a wall that does not abut any other component.
Toothing - the forming of a temporary stopped end in such a way as to allow the bond to continue at a later date as the work proceeds.
Tumbling in - bonding a battered buttress or breast into a horizontal wall.
Voussoir - a supporting brick in an arch, usually shaped to ensure that the joints appear even.
Withe - the central wall dividing two shafts. Most commonly to divide flues within a chimney.
[edit] Brickwork bonds
Bricks may be laid in a variety of 'bonds' or patterns of headers and stretchers on a series of courses. In single-thickness walls, these are purely decorative, but, in double-thickness walls, they strengthen the wall by connecting the layers.
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Flemish bond.
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Cavity wall-stretcher bond
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English bond
[edit] Flemish bond
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Ruins of Rosewell Plantation, Gloucester County, Virginia, one of earliest works in America in Flemish bond. The bricks were imported from England.
Flemish bond, also known as Dutch bond, has throughout history been considered the most decorative bond, and for this reason was used extensively for dwellings until the adoption of the cavity wall. It is created by alternately laying headers and stretchers in a single course.[5] The next course is laid so that a header lies in the middle of the stretcher in the course below. This bond is two bricks thick. It is quite difficult to lay Flemish bond properly, since for best effect all the perpendiculars (vertical mortar joints) need to be vertically aligned. If only one face of a Flemish bond wall is exposed, one-third of the bricks are not visible, and hence may be of low visual quality. This is a better ratio than for English bond, Flemish bond's main rival for load-bearing walls.
A common variation often found in early-18th-century buildings is Glazed-headed Flemish Bond, in which the exposed headers are burned until they vitrify with a black glassy surface. Other variants are Monk bond and Wessex Bond, the latter with three stretchers between each header. This is easier to lay than full Flemish Bond and produces a less intense, but nevertheless "pretty" brickwork face.
There are at least 6 buildings built of Flemish Bond Brickwork in and around the Historic Village of Menangle in New South Wales, Australia. The buildings include the Anglican Church, the Historic Menangle School, Gilbulla and three houses on Station Street.
[edit] Monk bond
Monk bond is a variant of Flemish bond, with two stretchers between the headers in each row, and the headers centred over the join between the two stretchers in the row below.[5] It was commonly used in the region around the Baltic Sea until turn of 13th and 14th centuries, then it was gradually replaced by Flemish bond.
[edit] Stretcher bond
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Stretcher bond in a brick wall in a restaurant
Stretcher bond, also known as running bond, consists of bricks laid with only their long narrow sides (their stretchers) showing, overlapping midway with the courses of bricks below and above. It is the simplest repeating pattern, but, since it cannot be made with a bond to the bricks behind, it is suitable only for a wall one-half brick thick, the thinnest possible wall.[6] Such a thin wall is not stable enough to stand alone, and must be tied to a supporting structure. It is common in modern buildings, in particular as the outer face of a cavity wall, or as the facing to a timber or steel framed structure. Stretcher bond is now used in building garden and boundary walls that are "stand alone" by incorporating a layer of steel brick-reinforcing mesh, laid every three or so courses, thus acting as headers in tying the two leaves together.
[edit] English bond
This bond has two alternating courses of stretchers and headers,[5] with the headers centered on the stretchers, and each alternate row vertically aligned. There is a variant in which the second course of stretchers is half offset from the first, giving rise to English cross bond or Dutch bond.[7]
[edit] American bond
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American Bond, 5th Ave, Harlem, New York
By one definition, Common, American, or Scottish bond has one row of headers to five of stretchers.[8] The number of stretcher courses may vary from that, in practice. For example, the brick Clarke-Palmore House in Henrico County, Virginia, has a lower level built in 1819 described as being American bond of 3 to 5 stretcher courses between each header course, and an upper level built in 1855 with American bond of 6 to 7 stretcher courses between each header course.[9]
[edit] Garden wall bonds
English garden wall bond - A repeating sequence of three courses of stretchers followed by a course of headers.[5]
Flemish garden Wall Bond - A repeating sequence of three stretchers followed by a header in each course.
[5] The courses are offset so that the headers of the courses above and below is centered on the middle stretcher of the course between (so at any header the sequence vertically is header-stretcher-header etc.). A variation of Flemish Garden Wall bond is Flemish diagonal bond - A complex pattern of stretcher courses alternating with courses of one or two stretchers between headers, at various offsets such that over ten courses a diamond-shaped pattern appears.[7]
Water Bond - a nine-inch wall bond where both skins are built in stretcher bond, but the bed joints in are staggered so as not to align. This bond is often specified by local councils in the North of England for manholes.
[edit] Rat-trap bond
Rat-trap bond, also known as Chinese bond, is a type of garden wall bond similar to Flemish, but consisting of rowlocks and shiners instead of headers and stretchers (the stretchers and headers are laid on their sides, with the bed face of the stretcher facing outward). This gives a wall with an internal cavity bridged by the headers, hence the name. The main advantage of this bond is economy in use of bricks, giving a wall of one-brick thickness with fewer bricks than a solid bond. The bond also gives the advantage that both skins are tied together. Rat-trap bond was in common usage in England for building houses of fewer than 3 stories up to the turn of the 20th century and is today still used in India as an economical bond, as well for the insulation properties offered by the air cavity. Also, many brick walls surrounding kitchen gardens were designed with cavities so hot air could circulate in the winter, warming fruit trees or other produce spread against the walls, causing them to bloom earlier and forcing early fruit production
Brickmasons (also called Bricklayers) lay brick, stone, structural tile, marble, concrete block, and other masonry materials to build walls, partitions, fireplaces, and other structures.
Stonemasons build stone structures such as piers and walls or lay walks, curbstones, or other special types of masonry.
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JOB DUTIES
Brickmasons may:
Estimate amount of materials needed
Measure distances and mark guidelines on work surfaces to lay out work
Determine the alignment of brick courses using plumb bob, level and line
Cut bricks to size
Spread mortar to serve as a base and binder for bricks
Apply mortar to bricks and position them in the mortar base
Tap bricks to align, level, and imbed them in mortar
Finish mortar joints between bricks with a shaped tool
Cut to size decorative block units used around doors and windows
Calculate angles and courses and determine vertical and horizontal alignment
Stonemasons may:
Shape stone before setting
Spread mortar over stone and foundation
Set stone in place by hand or with a crane
Align stone with a plumb line
Finish joints between stone